The day started very early for me. Snoring is a bad habit (of mine) so at 3:45 I got up and headed out with the camera, better prepared this time with hat and gloves. This time I went down to the coast and walked along the road to the mines, away from the bay. The light, muted by some clouds was so special. I took more good photographs in a 3 hour period than in the last 3 months!
It was also transfer Day, travelling from Longyearbyen to Cappe Linne where the hotel Isjford Radio is located. We packed up and were ready early but started to worry when no on e picked us up at the appointed time. A quick phone call sorted things out and ‘Harry’ picked us up from the hotel. He was our guide and boat skipper. We headed down to the Trappers Hotel where he explained what was going to happen and to sign the waiver! Then on to the warehouse to be kitted out in survival suits. Onesies have nothing on these suits, complete with integral wellington boots. Getting them on is an art form in itself (getting them off is more difficult!). As soon as you get them on you need to be outside or sweat starts to pour out of you!
A final transfer to the boat, a comfortable 11 person RIB (reinforced inflatable boat), where you sit horse riding style in two rows. We were the only guests with two staff members, Dara and Tjorbjoen, transferring to the hotel. We donned hats, goggles and mitts and headed out. As soon as the boat increased speed you appreciated why you were wearing so much protection. Boy was it cold!
The transfer took over two hours, stopping for brief periods for Harry to explain points of interest, including Barentsburg, where 400-500 miners work. The mine is owned by a Russian company but the miners are mainly Ukrainiane. We were told they don’t get paid money, rather they get points which they can spend in the town. As we continued on the sea got rougher and sea spray started to come across the bow, it just added to the experience.
Finally we reached the Hotel, docking at a small jetty requiring us to climb a steel ladder; not easy in the survival suits. Lea, from the hotel, met us with a warm apple drink, laced with calvados (not to mention the rifle slung over her shoulder!). A short walk to the hotel, the effort of removing the survival suits and then into the warm, inviting interior. It was only then that we realised that we were the only two guests! We felt so honoured. We were introduced to the rest of the team at the hotel, Inga, Jonny and Anthony. This is how the other half live!
Lunch was pork with rosemary sauce, accompanied by potatoes and broccoli (finally some vegetables), followed by a banana pudding with caramel sauce and coconut ice cream.
After lunch Harry took us out around the reserve for a ‘little’ walk. He is a fund of knowledge, including the restriction on making fires with any wood on the shore line with signs of human activity. We followed reindeer and got quite close to one with a deformed antler. Fulmers, Arctic Terns and Skuas flew around us, before we returned to the Hotel for a shower and preparation for dinner.
Love the early morning shots, fabulous.
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